B.C. wine region celebrates two decades of world-class Bordeaux reds

Twenty years ago, a small group of wine lovers made an unlikely bet: that the wild, windy Similkameen Valley could produce elegant Bordeaux-style wines to rival European producers. In 2006, they founded Clos du Soleil—"the vineyard of the sun"—on a remote upper Keremeos bench, planting Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Sauvignon Blanc, and Sémillon in a landscape that seemed too rough for such ambition.

To many, it looked impossible. But Clos du Soleil's co-founder Spencer Massie, a retired Royal Canadian Navy lieutenant-commander, had learned to love wine at sea. He consulted with the Herder family, among the earliest Similkameen growers, to plant the right grapes in the right spots. From the start, the vineyard embraced organic and biodynamic practices—sustainable farming to let the terroir speak through the wine.

The winemaking fell to two talented Canadians. Ann Sperling, an organic winemaker, consulted during the early years, setting the quality bar high. Michael Clark took over as winemaker in 2012 and has since crafted some of B.C.'s finest wines. Clark was drawn to the owners' vision and the valley's singular terroir. "It was unlike anything he'd seen in European or Canadian wine regions," the source notes. He champions minimal intervention, organic viticulture, biodynamic methods, and wild fermentation—letting Similkameen soils and sage-scented air speak through the wines.

Today, Clos du Soleil tends 16 hectares across five vineyards. Last month, Clark celebrated the 20th anniversary at a sold-out tasting at the Wedgewood Hotel's Bacchus Restaurant in Vancouver, pouring three old vintages of the flagship Signature red: 2010, 2013, and 2015. The 2010 showed well despite its age and the vineyard's relative youth then—a cool year that produced a leaner, savoury style that has aged beautifully. The 2013 was a star: balanced, complex, with all the hallmarks of a well-aged Similkameen red. The 2015, from a hot year, leans more toward Napa in style but retains the balance and character of the valley.

A wine region's reputation for wines that age well is crucial for boosting its status among the world's top producers. Clos du Soleil has proven that B.C. possesses the right climate and soils to compete internationally, even if exports remain limited. "The goal is to produce wines beyond mere commercial quantities—those that highlight a strong sense of place," the source notes.

Clos du Soleil plans celebrations throughout 2026. Check the website for upcoming events or visit the winery, where older vintages are offered alongside current releases, subject to availability.

Weekend picks from the tasting:

Clos du Soleil Fumé Blanc Sauvignon Blanc–Sémillon 2025, $26.90. A restrained, mineral-driven blend (70% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Sémillon) fermented in stainless steel and neutral oak. Expect grapefruit pith, lime zest, white peach, and a smoky, leesy undertone. The palate is dry and linear, with bright acidity, citrus, and orchard fruit, dusted with desert scrub notes. Pair with West Coast shellfish.

Poplar Grove CSM 2022, Naramata Bench, $29.99. Each of the three grapes—47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 23% Syrah—is processed individually before blending. A ripe red with plenty of structure, black cherries, cassis, cedar, and firm tannins finish with sagebrush. Pair with grilled beef, lamb, or braised short ribs.

Syncromesh Riesling 2025, Okanagan Valley, $26. An expressive, off-dry Riesling in perfect sync: sweet lime, green apples, white peach, and a sea of acidity that slides down effortlessly. At less than 10% alcohol, it's perfect with spicy dishes.