Schmaltz Appetizing opens for dinner on Dupont

Schmaltz Appetizing, chef Anthony Rose's longtime sandwich counter and pantry on Dupont, is now open for dinner.

The spot has been a daytime staple since 2014, stocking smoked salmon, gefilte fish, cream cheese and sour pickles alongside fresh bagels — closing most days around 2 p.m. Now, Schmaltz by Night runs Wednesday through Sunday starting at 5 p.m. through the end of summer.

Rose has been kicking around the dinner concept since the pandemic. "It's just been so hard to staff and get the concept right," he says. "But now I think we're onto something."

That something includes a freshly renovated 20-seat patio with lush greenery, a new menu and wine and cocktails. The concept was inspired by Rose's travels through New England, where he found "these shacks everywhere serving regular old hot dogs alongside fresh-caught lobster rolls prepared with cheffy precision and finesse."

Smoked wieners from the Butcher Shoppe come dressed with house queso and Cincinnati-style chili, with sides of pickle-packed potato salad and slaw. There are East Coast lobster rolls and Nordic shrimp rolls. Rose is also reviving old Drake Hotel and Rose and Sons favourites, including loaded nachos and house-made pastrami chili.

Dessert features rotating sundaes and a weekly special from Anthony's mom, Linda. Linda's opening sundae pairs Kawartha Dairy ice cream with crushed pecan butter squares, maple syrup and whipped cream. For now, the dinner service is a summer-only experiment. "We're setting up shop for now, then potentially starting something new in the fall," Rose says.