Master of Wine Jake Skakun shares his favourite spots in Toronto's west end
The sommelier behind Grey Gardens and Bar Vendetta—one of only seven people worldwide to earn the title this year—picks his go-to wine bars.
The day's top stories, food & events — every morning at 7. Unsubscribe anytime.
Jake Skakun just joined an exclusive club: one of only seven people in the world to earn the title of Master of Wine this year. The BC-born sommelier, who works as wine director for Grey Gardens, Bar Vendetta, Le Swan, and General Public, represents 14 years of building some of Toronto's best wine programs—work he started after meeting restaurateur Jen Agg through a roommate in 2012.
Skakun was studying poetry at U of T when Agg learned he'd worked at L'Abattoir in Vancouver and had solid wine knowledge. She asked him to join her at the Hoof, and when he hesitated, Agg replied in typical fashion: "What do you have to think about? You already know the answer." She was right.
These days, Skakun has honed his palate across the city's wine scene. Archive, at 909 Dundas St. W., is a Toronto institution frequented by industry folk. "It's unfussy, there's always a great variety of wines to drink by the glass and the markups are some of the most reasonable in the city," Skakun says. Check the chalkboard for limited by-the-glass pours and look for good Beaujolais paired with Canadian cheeses like Grey Owl or Niagara Gold.
Canary Counter, at 322 Harbord St., is more bottle shop than traditional wine bar, but owner Celia Méndez Díaz—from an esteemed wine family in Tenerife—makes it an inviting place to drink. "It's my favourite spot to find off-the-beaten-path Spanish picks," Skakun says. Salty, mineral whites from the Canary Islands are standouts, especially from Méndez Díaz's family winery, Bodegas Viñátigo. Don't miss the pop-up oyster nights, where shucked oysters are paired with natural wines.
Paradise Grapevine has two locations—841 Bloor St. W. and 218 Geary Ave.—both with great patios. They make their own wine at the Geary location using fruit from top Niagara vineyards, ranging from easy-drinking and low-intervention styles to serious terroir-driven cuvées. The Geary spot sits directly across from General Public, where Skakun sometimes pops in for their Party Favour orange wine when he's in the mood for something fun and uncomplicated. For something slightly more serious, he reaches for their PTG blend of gamay and pinot noir.
Good to know
Where is Archive located?
Archive is at 909 Dundas St. W. in Toronto.
What kind of wines does Archive pour by the glass?
Archive offers a great variety of wines by the glass with limited pours listed on a chalkboard, including good Beaujolais options.
Where is Canary Counter and what does it specialize in?
Canary Counter is at 322 Harbord St. and functions as both a bottle shop and wine bar, specializing in Spanish wines including salty, mineral whites from the Canary Islands.
Where can you find Paradise Grapevine locations?
Paradise Grapevine has two locations: 841 Bloor St. W. and 218 Geary Ave., both featuring patios.