B.C. wine critic picks 10 bold reds to replace banned American bottles
Tariff wars cut off American wines. Wine critic Anthony Gismondi curates bold B.C. reds with power and structure to satisfy big red drinkers seeking Napa-style alternatives.
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American wines vanished from B.C. liquor shelves as tariff wars tightened, and wine critic Anthony Gismondi is steering readers toward bold B.C. reds that match what big red drinkers expect from Napa Valley and Washington.
"B.C. can't imitate Napa Valley or Washington styles, but we can easily meet expectations for power and concentration, with polish and cellaring potential, while retaining our unique Okanagan freshness," Gismondi writes. His picks span Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Syrah.
Top picks include Black Hills Nota Bene 2023 ($70), a Black Sage Bench blend of 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, and 28% Cabernet Franc with dense, sweet tannins that will integrate through 2028. Painted Rock Red Icon 2021 ($80) mirrors top Bordeaux blends from the Skaha bench with cassis, black cherry, dark chocolate, and baking spice. Osoyoos Larose Le Grand Vin 2022 ($60) — crafted with Bordeaux consultant Éric Boissenot — is among Canada's best cellar-worthy reds, with refined structure and proven aging ability.
Laughing Stock Portfolio 2022 ($55), a Naramata Bench blend celebrating its 20th anniversary, carries black cherry, cedar, cocoa powder, pipe tobacco, and sweet oak — among the most Napa-like options with a strong price-to-quality ratio. Phantom Creek Becker Vineyard Cuvée 2021 ($69) balances considerable fruit weight with freshness and organic certification, easing the transition for California wine lovers. Clos du Soleil Estate Reserve 2021 ($70) draws Similkameen Valley fruit from four estate vineyards, aging indefinitely with plums, wild black fruits, and desert scrub.
Hester Creek The Judge 2022 ($52) from old vines dating to 1968 offers terrific value — ripe and rich with cedar, oak, tobacco, spice, and substantial black fruit. LaStella Maestoso Solo Merlot 2022 ($75) challenges Merlot's underrated status with richness and mouth-filling boldness. Mission Hill Oculus 2020 ($226), the label that launched the region's red wine surge in 1997, maintains its high standard of power and elegance. Clos du Soleil Célestiale 2022 ($29.90) is a lighter, early-drinking option blending 44% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, and smaller portions of Malbec and Petit Verdot, with fresh raspberry and blackberry suited to richer beef or lamb.
Good to know
What wine varieties does the critic recommend?
Anthony Gismondi's picks span Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Syrah — all bold B.C. reds with power and concentration.
What's a good entry-level option from this list?
Clos du Soleil Célestiale 2022 costs $29.90 and blends 44% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, and smaller portions of Malbec and Petit Verdot, with fresh raspberry and blackberry flavours suited to richer beef or lamb.
Which wine offers the best value according to the critic?
Hester Creek The Judge 2022 at $52 offers terrific value from old vines dating to 1968, delivering ripe and rich flavours of cedar, oak, tobacco, spice, and substantial black fruit.
