On The Other Hand sheds steak-and-frites name for culinary freedom

The steak-and-frites restaurant on the corner of Denman and Haro is still there — but it's shed that name for something bigger.

On The Other Hand by Handson is the second chapter of the same team: chefs Kyle Lee (formerly CinCin, Elisa, and Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie) and Cassidy Nguyen, alongside Wine Director Sean Nelson. They removed "steak and frites" from the name because it was creatively limiting them. "We wanted to show guests in Vancouver that we could do more than just a steak, because having a steak and frites in the name limits what we can put around the table," Lee explained.

Inside, the space retains much of its previous character — dark tones, moody lighting, a tucked-away atmosphere — but with updated paint and decor. Pickled vegetables line the walls, bottles of alcohol sit on display, and the dishware feels curated but eclectic, with little paper crane utensil holders. The entire kitchen is visible to diners.

Upon sitting at the bar with a view into the small kitchen, guests are quickly presented with olives coated in fire-charred tallow, a seasonal farm salad, house pickles, and one of Nguyen's cocktails. The cocktail program is designed from a chef's perspective rather than a bartender's, aimed at capturing a specific moment with elaborate accompaniments. The current theme is called Her Side, centred around a love story told from a woman's perspective.

I Knew It Was Over — featuring gin, strawberry, orange blossom, cream, rose, and lemon — visually resembled cotton candy in liquid form, light and fruity. The other drink, I Saw Him First, was stronger and warmer, with tallow-washed whiskey, raisin, warm spices, and gin, served with honeycomb on the side.

This is the kind of restaurant where it's best to sit back and let the team take control of your dining experience — they want to tell you a story with each course.